In case you are wondering if the Trail Rider team has made a mistake putting out an article on the stock market or RRSPs and other investments, in a magazine devoted to quads, let me set things straight : we are just playing on words here, the subject we will cover is shock absorbers. Accounting  and investment experts will not classify an ATV as an investment, to them it is an expense. But for off-road adepts, such as myself, who believe in the benefits of “Quad-Therapy”, this vehicle is indeed an investment, hence the importance of taking the time to adjust your vehicle to your capabilities and needs.

Many ATV enthusiasts who own a sport quad often want to improve their machine through performance accessories: after a short dismantling session in the garage or at the corner mechanic’s shop, the beast is ready to give out a roar. These vehicles are capable of reaching astonishing speeds, but in our small world fifth gear will seldom be used, unless we are racers practicing in closed circuit conditions. I still remember the adrenaline rush I would get from my Yamaha Banshee with each acceleration, and the sound of the modified motor screaming aloud every time my thumb pushed to the max, but then, there is always a “but”, I was mistaken in my choice of priorities.

Let me explain. Adding horsepower might seem the right thing to do, in order to develop a more aggressive driving style and experience more thrills, but one must bear in mind that adding more power to a quad, that will throw you up in the air at the first bump or will have a tendency to tip on two wheels in turns, will not be of great use, especially if we consider safety to be of the greatest importance. And to you, dear female readers (I sure hope, ladies, that there is a greater number of you reading our magazine and also braving the trails!) and to you our male readers, the first thing to be adjusted and improved on a quad should be the suspension. For those of you who think that their suspension is under-performing, you can always choose to purchase a higher end model ATV. I do want to point out the manufacturer’s efforts in providing excellent suspensions that will perform adequately for most of us, especially on sport quads. I would like to share certain basic notions with you that can help you effect your adjustments and get the maximum out of your suspension, notably on those vehicles equipped with setting possibilities, such as high and low speed compression, rebound and preload adjustments. A proper setting of the shock absorbers is of great importance, since it will allow you longer rides without experiencing fatigue, whatever your driving style.

The first thing to know is the type of shock absorber your quad is equipped with. As a general rule, shock absorbers come in four families.

In the first family, low-range models are not equipped with shock settings. These basic shock absorbers are found on mini-quads or on low end models. They are no headache in terms of adjustment, but one cannot expect a very high level of performance from them. (photo 1) overlapping 2nd (Photo 1)

In the second family, we only find preload adjustment, influencing the pressure on the spring on almost all lower end utility or sport ATVs. On utility vehicles, generally, you will have a setting choice between five pre-determined positions. This type of shock does not allow for precise settings, but often those who drive those huge 4x4s will be very satisfied this way, even though it is quite easy to reach the bottom or limit of the shock on these models, as soon as you push the machine harder.

Entree level ATVs are equipped with a second type of preload setting, featuring a pair of threaded nuts, for much more precise preload adjustment. For a more lively ride, these shock absorbers are a definite asset. (photo 2 and 3)

The third family of shock absorbers is for riders with a certain experience who appreciate a sport ride. They offer two settings, one for preload and one for rebound. The setting of the rebound will control the speed at which your shock will return to its initial position after compressing. An efficient setting of the rebound will keep the wheels in contact with the ground for optimum traction, a very important point, for if the wheels constantly bounce driving will become hazardous as speed increases or terrain gets rough. (photo 4)

The last family of shock absorbers is used by experienced riders, who will train on closed circuits, but these shocks can now also be found on almost all sport quads. Often of an excellent quality, these shocks offer a multitude of settings. They come equipped with preload, rebound and compression adjustments, but the cherry on the sundae is on those models with high and low speed compression.
Compression is the setting that allows hardening or softening of the shock by modifying its hydraulic pressure, according to terrain conditions, for example.
Shock absorbers are now more polyvalent, riders can change settings, most of the time without difficulty, with a screwdriver or even without tools on those vehicles equipped with an adjustment knob.

Low and high speed compression works somewhat the same way: there is an adjustment to the compression speed exercised on the shocks, according to speed of vehicle and force of impact, as on landing from a jump or when pushing the machine harder on bumps. Such an adjustment level will require more time and expertise, but one should not go without.

All more advanced shocks have a feature in common; they are equipped with piggyback reservoirs. These reservoirs provide a definite advantage to more experienced riders, allowing the shocks to cool off much faster and increasing efficiency on long treks or in competition. Some drivers will also use a friction reducing Kashima coating. In any case, all shock absorbers in this category deserve to be protected in sheaths. (photo 5 and 6)

Presentations being completed, I would like to explain how to go about doing good basic adjustments, for, as with many things in life, if the base is not solid, the rest won’t go! These settings pointers mostly concern sport ATVs with standard suspensions and a single shock absorber at the back, although 4x4 riders can get inspiration from these pointers. A small comment here, if you allow me : I would like to see manufacturers put as much effort into other quads as they did with sport quads, and on the 4x4 shocks for instance, with all available options offered such as power steering, GPS and more. Just plain shock absorbers or only preload adjustment shocks are not sufficient anymore!

To efficiently realize these settings, it is preferable to work as a team. You will need a centimetre gradient measuring tape (for easier math), a pencil and a calculator, if you are allergic to mental calculus.

The rear shock absorber (Measuring points.jpg)

The first setting is the weight-free sag (distance the suspension settles from vehicle weight) shock absorber compression, i.e. the pressure exerted on the shock by the weight of the ATV, without the rider on board. This compression rate should not exceed 10% of maximum shock travel.

Step 1: mark a point on the ATV’s A Arm and a corresponding point on the lower part of the frame with a marker or pencil. It is important to refer to these same points for all measures, so make sure they cannot be erased.

Step 2 : lift the ATV by the frame or by the rear bar until full extension of the shock, while still leaving the tires in soft contact with the ground. (Fig 1)
Step 3: measure the distance between point A and point B, as seen on the photo and take note of the figures.

Step 4: release the ATV back onto the ground and press the saddle down a few times so that the shock can resume its initial normal position. Again, you must measure the distance between these two points.

Step 5: Now for the figures: as seen above, weight-free sag shock absorber compression should not exceed 10% of maximum shock travel.
Ex.: Step 3 measure = 60 centimetres, 10% of 60 centimetres = 6 centimetres.
If setting of the weight-free sag is well adjusted, the measurement at Step 4 should be 54 cm (60cm-6cm= 54cm).

If your measurement exceeds 10%, preload of your spring should be increased, or decreased if your measurement is under. Once the right setting is reached, you are ready for the next step.

In order to get the maximum out of your shock, laden sag setting (with rider on board) must now be adjusted. With the rider seated on the ATV, preferably the usual driver, well centered on the vehicle, with hands on the handlebars and feet on the footrests, you can start working.
Of the two preload settings possible, the laden sag compression setting is the most important, but if both settings can meet the objective, it is all for the better. The laden sag setting should be close to 30% of maximum shock travel. Here are the steps to follow.

Step 1b: Once the driver is seated on the ATV, the second person must get the measurement on the two points previously marked. (Fig 2)

Step 2b: subtract the measurement obtained during weight-free sag in Step 3. ((Example: 60 centimetres weight-free sag, 30% of 60 centimetres = 18 centimetres). Consequently, when the driver is on board, the shock should compress by about 18 centimetres. Distance between our two marks should approximately be 42 centimetres. If the measurement you have come up with is far from the 30% objective, necessary adjustments must be made. If your ATV settles too low when in driving position, adjust the spring by tightening. On the contrary, if the rear of the vehicle barely goes down when seated, pressure must be decreased on the spring by un-tightening.

In order to make sure the weight-free sag and laden sag settings of the shocks are well balanced, check the weight-free sag measurement obtained after having adjusted the laden sag settings. If the first measurement obtained is greatly affected by the second, it is possible that the spring on your shock is not adapted to your weight, in which case it is preferable to concentrate on the laden sag setting.
Shock absorbers installed by manufacturers are designed for a medium weight person. If your weight exceeds these norms, you can replace the spring with one corresponding to your weight, or buy new shocks from your dealer. Certain manufacturers offer custom made shocks, after getting you to answer a questionnaire on your weight, driving style and the type of terrain you like to ride in...

The front shock absorbers

In the case of front shocks, when the vehicle has no modified A arms and the shocks are standard, my advice is to go with your first impressions to start with, and if your forearms are numb after 10 minutes of riding and you find that the front of your ATV is very rigid, progressively un-tighten the springs till you are satisfied. On the other hand, if your vehicle shows a tendency to dive when braking or that the shocks bottom out on the first bump, more pressure should be applied to the springs.

On certain quads, you can apply the same principle as on the back shock by marking a point on the frame in front and marking a point on the ground. Take your measurements and do your math. In front, my tendency is to apply a 20 to 25% laden sag setting on my quads, instead of 30%. There are many reasons for this, but the main one is that if the front of the vehicle is slightly higher, the traction will be better on the rear wheels. It is up to you to determine which setting is right for your ATV and personal riding style.

Rebound and compression

Your needs should define the rebound and compression settings on your ATV. If you are the type of rider to hit the accelerator as soon as you see a series of bumps, the adjustment of your shocks should allow them to rapidly return to their initial position after the bump. If, on the other hand, you are more of a relaxed rider, a slower rebound setting would be more appropriate. As for compression, the same principle applies; settings should be adapted to your riding style and the type of terrain. If contact with a bump makes your shocks bottom out, compression should be increased. However, if you feel your ATV to be stiff, especially running over obstacles, compression should be decreased. For maximum efficiency, it is preferable to turn the adjustment knob or the screw, only two clicks at a time, and go through different trials. You could be surprised how a small difference in the suspension’s adjustment can affect handling and bring on possible accidents when you go from one extreme to the other.

Before applying these recommendations, I would like to offer some advice that could come in handy for you all.

First off, modify one setting at a time. Obtaining a proper setting on these shocks is not a simple task, do one step at a time.

Secondly, make written notes, bring along a small notebook or log out on the trail or the racetrack where you practice and write down your settings, your preferences and the fatigue experienced after tests. This is an “idiot free” method.

Thirdly, do all your testing on the same trail, so differences in your adjustments can be more easily felt.

In order to keep up with our good habits, we decide to put all of this in practice and analyse the results, because theory is a fine way of saying things but real life often turns out a tad cruel. Our guinea pig on this occasion is my friend’s Yamaha 700 Raptor, whose lifelong nickname is “TAZ”. His machine is awesome in its looks and with only one hundred kilometres on the ticker; the shocks have not been touched since delivery of the ATV.

This little gem has already been graced with a few improvements, the whole exhaust system from Yoshimura, the filter is a K&N and add ITP wheels (25,4 cm / 10" instead of 22,8 cm / 9" at the rear).
Our team is going to put his mount on the operating table, adjust all the settings on the shock absorbers and get some feedback from the rider after a test run on the track.
This Yamaha 700 Raptor machine comes standard with the perfect type of shock absorber for our test: it is equipped with adjustable preload, rebound, high and low speed compression settings and with piggyback side-by-side reservoirs to back everything else. The first negative comments from the owner of this ATV have to do with the soft suspension, where that the front end has a tendency to dive when braking and the back end to continuously bounce off the bumps.

Our first attention goes to the rear shock and its setting screw, which is difficult to access. The distance measurement between points A and B in maximum extension is 42 cm. / 16.5"

In theory :

Theoretical weight-free sag: 42-4,2= 37,8 cm / 14.8"

Theoretical laden sag: 42-12,6= 29,4 cm / 11.5"

Actual figures after settings:

Measured weight-free sag: 38,4 cm / 15.1"

Measured laden sag: 29,5 cm / 11.6"
(with a 99,8 kg / 220 lbs driver on board).

It is evident that reaching the theoretical figures is almost impossible, the important thing being to come as close as possible. We had to redo the settings three times before coming to this result, so be patient.

For the compression and rebound settings, we went directly to the track, in order to affect our adjustments in real conditions.

Here we are, ready for action, it’s a beautiful day, the sky is blue, it isn’t too warm, the only less positive point being the fact of rain in the last few days that has turned the track into a field of mud. The Raptor’s owner jumps aboard his machine, lets the engine warm up a while and decides to hit the gas. After three laps around the track, he stops and gives his first impressions. We were worried with the fact he might prefer his Raptor as it was, before the adjustments we brought to the shocks. Fortunately, it was not the case, the first remark being that there was no more nose dive when braking; there was more stability in the curves and finally that he felt much more confident on his machine. Although he felt an immediate difference, I don’t think the shocks can be set to perfection in so little time, the rebound and compression settings being a long term endeavour.

Now, it’s our turn to get this Raptor to roar, and we are not all the same weight, but we hope to be able to tell the difference between before and after settings.

Alain, our chief-editor, gets on board and right off we can tell he is not there in a figurative role, after a few power slide turns and good accelerations at the mere sight of a bump, I can almost see his smile under his helmet, a very good sign!

As far as I am concerned, I would like to say that after five minutes on board this Raptor, I only had one thought in mind: on Monday, I’m phoning my dealer and buying one!

In conclusion, I would like to offer my thanks to Alain Godin (TAZ to his friends) who lent us his Raptor ATV, in all confidence.

If you are not satisfied with your shock absorbers, you can always purchase more performing versions. Bear in mind that they can be quite expensive. On a sport ATV or a 4x4, we are talking between 1 500 $ and 4 000 $.
Nonetheless, you will feel the difference, but do not make the mistake of choosing shocks exceeding your needs! Or worse still, buying new ones before trying to fully adjust the original stocker shocks, especially now that you know how to adjust them.

See you next month, for more ways of improving your ATV at minimal cost.